Ram is a crustacean related to crabs but lives in brackish waters near river mouths, estuaries, swamps, rice fields, and mangrove forests. It is similar in size or smaller than field crabs, with a slightly flattened body and firm meat.

The underside of ram is typically white or yellowish, containing the reproductive organ known as the plastron which helps distinguish males from females.

Females have a larger plastron that covers most of the abdomen, while males have a smaller apron located in the center of the abdomen.

In Vietnam, ram is a popular ingredient for cooking and is especially favored in the North. People in provinces of Hai Phong, Thai Binh, and Nam Dinh consider ram a “heaven-sent” delicacy, eagerly buying it during its season to prepare a range of delicious dishes.

Ngoc Bich, the owner of a seafood restaurant in Hai Phong, said the ram season in the North falls in the third and 10th month of the lunar year. During this time, ram is full of roe, plump meat, making it the highest quality of the year.

For this reason, people in many areas liken ram to a summer and autumn specialty, awaiting the season to come and buy in large quantities.

“In some localities, people farm commercial ram, but naturally caught ram is more highly valued and sought after by customers. However, wild ram is increasingly scarce, and harvesters don’t catch much each time, so not everyone can buy and enjoy it,” Bich said.

According to Bich, “floating ram” or “migrating ram” is the tastiest, often appearing before or after the 1st and 15th days of the lunar month. During these times, ram gather in groups, forming clusters that float with the current to river mouths to spawn. A few months later, they ride the tides back to rice fields and rivers.

“Floating ram is the best, but it only appears for a few days each month, depending on the tides. Because it’s delicious and rare, floating ram, despite its high price of about VND300,000–400,000 per kg (depending on the place and time), is still hunted by discerning foodies,” the restaurant owner added.

Compared to field crabs, ram can be used to make more dishes, such as fried crispy, cooked in soups, braised, or stir-fried with loofah. Among them, ram braised with lolot leaves is the most popular and beloved, perfect as a drinking snack or paired with hot rice.

Thao Trinh