Soft when raw, chewy when cooked, ca ngan is a versatile and nutritious ingredient locals adore.
Around April each year, the Da River flowing through northwest provinces like Dien Bien, Son La, and Hoa Binh reveals a rare natural delicacy: a tiny, boneless, translucent fish with a pearly white color, often compared to glass noodles in appearance.
Locals call this fish ca ngan. It has an unusual look, its body completely white and nearly transparent, measuring just slightly thicker than a bean sprout. Larger individuals can grow to the width of a chopstick.
Ca ngan is characterized by its jet-black eyes resembling sesame seeds and a faint line of tiny scales before the tail fin. The head is pointed and filled with small teeth, while the backbone is soft and crunchy, cartilage-like in texture.
Ca ngan is harvested only from natural sources. Photo: Esheep Kitchen
According to Cong Luyen, a longtime ca ngan fisherman in Luong Son District, Hoa Binh Province, the fish live in clean waters and avoid the shoreline.
The fishing season typically runs from April to July. During this time, ca ngan swim in schools, but catching them requires skill and experience.
“Catching ca ngan is a delicate task. If they sense movement, they disperse instantly,” said Luyen. “When the water is calm, they gather in schools. Skilled fishers can quickly scoop up several kilograms with a net or scoop. More methodical harvesting involves taking a boat and using specialized nets for larger catches.”
Ca ngan often appears from April to May. Photo: Song Anh DC
Luyen explained that while ca ngan is soft and noodle-like when raw, it firms up and becomes chewy once cooked, making it a popular ingredient in local cuisine.
The fish can be used in various dishes, with the most beloved being fish cakes and sour soup.
Because ca ngan feed on algae and plankton and only survive in clean, natural waters, they’re considered healthy and easy to prepare. Once purchased, they only need to be rinsed and drained before cooking.
Due to their soft bodies, it’s best to cook them immediately after cleaning to preserve their fresh taste and texture.
Ca ngan is easy to cook and edible whole. Photo: Tran Hien
Sour soup made with ca ngan is a popular summer dish. The recipe is simple: thinly sliced pineapple is sautéed with tomatoes and shallots (or scallion bulbs), then simmered with water and seasoned like a traditional sour soup.
Once the broth boils, the fish is added along with some fermented rice paste or tamarind for tartness. After 5–10 minutes on low heat, the soup is ready. It’s served with chopped scallions and dill sprinkled on top.
This hot, tangy soup pairs perfectly with rice or noodles. The gentle acidity complements the sweet, tender fish, making it enjoyable for both adults and children.
Ca ngan sour soup is ideal for cooling off in summer. Photo: Song Anh DC
“In my hometown, people often add pickled cassava leaves or sour bamboo shoots to the soup for a nutty, aromatic twist,” Luyen shared.
Fish cakes made with ca ngan are also popular and vary by region and taste. The simplest version is made with dill, while more elaborate options include fish cakes wrapped in lolot leaves, mandarin peel (similar to cha ruoi), or even rolled in rice paper like spring rolls.
Ca ngan fish cake with dill is easy to make. Photo: Quynh Nhu
Other inventive dishes include ca ngan omelets, crispy fried ca ngan, and bun ca ngan (noodle soup with ca ngan), all catering to diverse culinary preferences.
Luyen described ca ngan as a sensory delight due to its unique texture and flavor. The meat is chewy, the bones crunchy, and the taste naturally fragrant and mildly sweet.
In his opinion, it’s even tastier than shrimp, and its market price reflects that.
Gourmets say ca ngan is more flavorful than shrimp or crab and worth the high price. Photo: Trang Dong
In Da River regions, ca ngan is sold locally for around 150,000-200,000 VND (approximately $6-8 USD) per kilogram. When transported to urban areas like Hanoi or flown to southern Vietnam, prices rise to 280,000-300,000 VND ($11-12 USD) per kilogram.
In recent years, ca ngan has become more widely known, cherished as a rare seasonal gift from nature. Though only available once a year, it remains in high demand despite its price.
Some buyers even stock up by purchasing several kilos, cleaning and freezing them for use over the following months.