Locals describe the feast in Quang Yen district as “the grandest in the land of mines” (Quang Ninh is known for having the largest coal mines in Vietnam) thanks to its diverse menu, featuring dishes made from fresh, high-quality seafood like shrimp, crab, squid, and sea worms.

Among them, ‘ngan’ (Austriella corrugate) stands out. It is considered a “heaven-sent” specialty of the Bach Dang river mouth area, in Ha Nam island (Quang Yen, Quang Ninh).

“In Vietnam, ngan is found in only a few areas, but the ngan from the Bach Dang river mouth in Quang Yen is considered the tastiest and most common. This is because the tidal flats near the sea and mangrove forests provide an ideal habitat for ngan,” Do Van, the owner of a wedding banquet center in Quang Yen, explained.

According to Van, ngan looks similar to ‘ngao’ (Veneridae) but is larger, about the size of three fingers pressed together, with a hard shell, brown or gray, and neatly arranged ridges.

The best time to harvest ngan is during summer and autumn. In winter, they burrow deep into the sand, making them hard to find and harvest. As a result, ngan is pricier in winter.

“Besides wild harvesting, locals have farmed commercial ngan, supplying restaurants and eateries both locally and beyond. It’s a famous specialty of Quang Yen,” Van said.

For Quang Yen locals, ngan is a must-have for important occasions like festivals, Tet, ancestor worship, or weddings. Smaller feasts use a few kilograms, while larger ones can go through 15-20kg of ngan.

“A feast with ngan is considered luxurious because it’s delicious, nutritious, and expensive. Locals believe a feast isn’t complete without ngan, as it showcases the distinctive culinary culture of the area. Especially at feasts, people often eat other dishes first and save the delicious ngan, taking 1-2 pieces home for kids or grandparents,” said Trong Quang, a veteran wedding feast chef in Quang Yen.

Quang said that ngan for feasts must be fresh, slightly flat, and medium-sized—perfect for one bite, making it easy for guests to enjoy.

Ngan can be prepared in many ways, but the most common dish in QuangYen feasts is silver foil-steamed ngan, which is both visually appealing and quick to cook.

Quang explained that ngan is just steamed (or boiled) until done, about 3-4 minutes, without seasoning to retain its tender juiciness and avoid losing moisture.

To enjoy it, one must eat the meat and drink the juice released from the ngan to fully appreciate its nutrition and fresh flavor.

Linh Trang