Months ago, Miya, a Chinese tourist, visited Hanoi with her Indonesian boyfriend. During their stay, they explored the city's famous street food scene and visited several local attractions.

Among all the dishes Miya tried, the one that left the deepest impression was bun dau mam tom – rice noodles with fried tofu and fermented shrimp paste.

Though bun dau mam tom has appeared in Taste Atlas’ list of the 45 “worst” Vietnamese dishes as voted by international readers, and despite many foreign tourists being hesitant to try it, Miya found it surprisingly enjoyable. She shared that she had eaten it several times without getting tired of it.

The couple sampled the dish at a humble eatery on Ngo Gach Street in Hoan Kiem Ward (formerly part of Dong Xuan Ward, Hoan Kiem District). They ordered a full combo serving, which included rice noodles, fried tofu, herbs, boiled pork leg, green rice pork patties, and stuffed pork intestines. They also added a plate of fried intestines and fried spring rolls.

Before digging in, Miya confidently sniffed the fermented shrimp paste and remarked that “it’s not actually that pungent.” She even noted that the flavor felt familiar, likely because she had eaten it multiple times before.

When the steaming hot ingredients were served, she praised the aromatic presentation and vibrant plating. She seemed well-versed in the local style, expertly mixing kumquat juice, chili, and sugar into the shrimp paste until it frothed up.

“Shrimp paste doesn’t smell bad at all. It’s delicious when paired with crispy fried food,” Miya said after tasting the green rice pork patty dipped in the paste.

She was equally impressed with the pork intestines, commenting on the crunchiness, richness, and flavorful stuffing.

When trying the fried spring rolls, she marveled at the crispy outer layer and the hot, savory filling inside.

The fried intestines also earned her praise for their quality, enticing aroma, and crispy exterior. When dipped into the shrimp paste, they became even more appealing.

She also complimented the stuffed pork blood sausages, saying they were juicy, flavorful, and had a pleasant bite.

The tofu, fried to golden perfection, was crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. “Biting into it feels like it bursts open - it’s just like soft tofu,” Miya observed.

“I really love the fried dishes in Hanoi. Before I leave, I’ll definitely come back here to eat again,” the Chinese tourist said.

Aside from bun dau mam tom, Miya and her boyfriend also enjoyed other street foods in Hanoi, including mango salad, grilled beef, and skillet-style Vietnamese baguettes. Their trip also included stops at iconic landmarks like Hoan Kiem Lake, West Lake, and the Hanoi Opera House.

Thao Trinh