At the busy intersection of Chan Cam and Ly Quoc Su Streets in Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem District, two eateries constantly bustle with both locals and tourists: Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su and Miến Lươn (eel noodle soup) Chan Cam.

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Miến Lươn Chan Cam is a must-visit destination for food lovers.

Both establishments were selected for the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand list, which recognizes quality cuisine at reasonable prices. For the first time, Miến Lươn Chan Cam made the list, announced on June 5.

“In winter, a steaming bowl of eel noodle soup with crispy fried eel is irresistible. In summer, the fresh eel salad is a must-try,” Michelin Guide recommended.

“I was shocked when I received the Michelin Guide invitation. I never imagined our small family-run shop would be recognized and praised by them. It’s truly a spiritual reward after nearly 40 years of selling miến lươn,” said 60-year-old shop owner Vu Thi Lan.

Mrs. Lan personally runs the stall daily from 6 a.m. to 4 p.m., with her sisters taking over in the evenings. She is constantly busy throughout the day.

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Mrs. Lan has been serving eel noodles for 37 years.

During lunchtime, she needs five extra helpers to manage dine-in orders and delivery requests. Despite its small size, the shop is neat and spotless. Mrs. Lan is also loved for her warm, cheerful demeanor.

She shared that her love for eel noodles began when she was young. During her pregnancy, she frequently craved them, often visiting eateries in the Old Quarter and teaching herself how to make them.

“When my eldest daughter turned three, I quit my textile job to stay home and sell eel noodles. Every day, my husband and I roamed the streets of Hang Trong, Hang Gai, and Hang Bot.

We picked each eel ourselves, cleaned, fried them, and prepared the broth. We fine-tuned our recipe to suit Hanoi’s palate. Even while pregnant with my second daughter, I carried my street cart around the Old Quarter,” she recalled.

After 15 years of street vending, she and her husband moved their stall to the sidewalk of Chan Cam Street. When he passed away, she no longer had help with heavy tasks and rented a fixed storefront, offering more comfort for diners.

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At 9:30 a.m., the shop remains crowded with dine-in and takeaway orders.

Eventually, she rented another space across the street and opened a second shop. “I named it Minh Lan - after both of us - but customers began calling it Miến Lươn Chan Cam,” she said.

In addition to noodle soups, stir-fried or mixed eel noodles, the menu includes eel spring rolls, eel patties, braised eel with banana and tofu, eel soup, and eel porridge, giving diners a variety of options.

“Our street stall helped raise two daughters and put them through school,” she said.

“Hanoi has hundreds of eateries. To stand out - even to picky eaters - you must be authentic. Choose quality ingredients, prepare them meticulously, and have your own secret,” she added.

For 37 years, Mrs. Lan has only used field eels. She used to source them from markets, but with growing demand and scarcity, she now partners with trusted suppliers in Bac Ninh.

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A bowl of eel noodles at one of Hanoi’s busiest shops costs 45,000–60,000 VND (about 1.77–2.36 USD).

“They deliver cleaned eels daily. I can tell if it’s a fresh field eel just by its size and sheen,” she said.

These eels aren’t large but are flavorful. However, their price is high.

“Every other day, we fry about 150–200 kg (330–440 lbs) of fresh eel. Each batch takes 30 minutes. My sister and brother-in-law handle the frying. Their years of experience ensure perfect heat control.

The fried eel must be crispy but not tough or burnt, and not greasy. Even at the bottom of the bowl, it remains crispy. I never coat it with flour like some places do,” she explained.

Near Tet (Lunar New Year), her fried eel is in high demand for gifts. A kilogram of crispy dry eel costs 1.6–1.7 million VND (about 63–67 USD).

In summer, mixed eel noodles and eel salad are more popular than soup. A bowl includes lightly blanched noodles and bean sprouts, pickled cucumber, shredded carrot, aromatic herbs, and either crispy or soft eel - depending on customer preference.

It’s topped with a dressing made from soy sauce and a balance of sour, salty, sweet, and mildly spicy flavors. In just a few minutes, a colorful dish is ready, garnished with fried shallots and roasted peanuts, and served with a hot broth on the side.

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Perfectly crispy eel requires expert heat control.

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The broth is simmered from eel bones and blood.

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Cu Da noodles, when properly blanched, stays firm and doesn’t fall apart in the broth.

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“Our broth follows a special recipe. We puree eel bones and cook them down with eel blood, seasoned only with spices - no additives.

It’s then diluted to create a fragrant, naturally sweet eel broth,” she shared.

Her miến lươn has a distinct flavor and preparation compared to eel dishes from Nghe An.

Mrs. Lan only uses noodles from Cu Da Village, known for its chewy texture, fragrance, and golden color.

For eel salad, she combines bean sprouts, banana blossom, cucumber, carrot, fried shallots, herbs, and crispy eel, tossed in sweet-sour fish sauce. The dish is refreshing, nutty, and crunchy - perfect for summer.

For stir-fried noodle dishes, orders are prepared fresh. Eel patties and spring rolls are also fried to order, releasing an enticing aroma.

The shop seats about 40 guests, with air-conditioning and parking. Still, expect a wait during peak hours in the morning or at lunch.

While the restaurant receives many positive reviews online, some customers feel the portions could include more eel. The soup and porridge are considered less standout.

This is the second eel noodle shop in Hanoi to earn a Bib Gourmand listing, after Dong Thinh.

Linh Trang